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The spirit of grappa |
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While grappa has fortunately outgrown its
reputation as a poor man’s panacea, it still inspires intense opinions and
extreme tasting notes—but there’s much more to it than that. Like the fine
wines of Italy, the more you know about them, the more you come to
appreciate them. And chances are, if you explore any Italian institution,
you’ll find passion, tradition and a sense of family. Precisely the recipe
for success at the Bertagnolli Distillery in Mezzocorona—the oldest running
distillery in Trentino-Alto Adige, and the second oldest in Italy. Grappa is produced by the direct distillation of pomace (vinaccia), the solid residue that is left after pressing grapes during wine making. Originally, it seemed to be a good venture for winemakers, as pomace is simply a by-product of winemaking (stems, stalks and seeds), and would otherwise be thrown away. But little attention was paid to the raw materials, and the result was harsh. Wealthy winemakers would often keep their wine, and leave the potent, rough-tasting grappa to their workers. So how did the paint-thinner perception of grappa morph into the Murano glass-worthy, sophisticated spirit? At the Bertagnolli Distillery, it is development, innovation and dedication that have taken their spirits to new heights. Their grappas have won gold medals from the Concorso Nazionale Grappe in Italy, as well as awards in the annual International Spirits Challenge. While respectful of Trentino’s tradition of grappa-making, Bertagnolli has incorporated technology into their methods of production, which have since been adopted by countless distilleries all over Europe. The Bertagnollis developed an advanced bain marie cooling system—a double boiler whereby a double-bottomed copper pot distributes heat evenly without exposing the pomace to direct heat. Grappa is now made at the Bertagnolli Distillery with six discontinuous alembics designed by copper maker Tullio Zadro, and all the distilling is still done in single batches. Additionally, the use of electronic monitoring has reduced the occurrence of human error. Attention to raw materials—the pomace itself—has greatly changed the face of grappa as well. In the past, wineries would over-press the grapes to extract the most wine possible, leaving dry, waste-like leftovers. Nowadays, Bertagnolli uses only the freshest pomace, gently pressed with a little liquid remaining.
While the Bertagnollis take care of making the grappa, it is left to us to appreciate it. Tasting rules are not etched in stone, but several guidelines are useful. Serve grappa at cellar temperature (about 68°) or slightly chilled. Try swirling it around in the glass in order to get the most out of the bouquet. In terms of pairing, take your cues from the grapes. Bertagnolli’s Grappa di Amarone, made with the characteristically rich and flavorful Amarone grape, can hold its own against strong, flavorful cheeses such as Parmigiano and Gorgonzola. The lighter Grappa di Moscato, instead, is a sweeter, more subtle spirit reminiscent of the popular dessert wine, and is an excellent after-dinner match for a plate of cioccolatini (see Page 58 for more on Italian chocolates).
Grappa has far surpassed its reputation as a harsh drink, and has emerged as a friendly, smooth and versatile spirit. So abandon your preconceived notions about grappa, and join in the spirit of the Bertagnolli family.
Photos: Livia and Beppe Bertagnolli; the Bertagnolli distillery; a view of Trentino’s vine-friendly territory. |
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What
emerges from all of this pomace, copper and water-bathing is a drinkable and
highly enjoyable grappa. Bertagnolli makes a range of single varieties with
local grapes such as Teroldego, Traminer and Cabernet, each imparting a
different flavor and aroma. Several varieties are mixed to form the grappino,
and the acquavitae (literally, “water of life”) is made from whole fermented
grapes, rather than pomace (a process which is no longer permitted under the
definition of standard grappas). 
And
with its dramatic intensity of flavor, grappa is perfect for mixing. Try
grappa in a cocktail, such as a grappatini (grappa and vermouth) or
Bertagnolli’s concoction of Grappa di Moscato with cranberry juice and
cointreau. If the idea of a caffè corretto sounds intimidating, try rinsing
your coffee cup with grappa before adding your coffee (rasentin). Many
Northern Italian dishes, known for their strong flavors, are enhanced with a
splash of grappa, and Bertagnolli has published a cookbook with a number of
appetizing ideas including risotto with grappa and quail, and a rich
grappa-marinated venison with fig ravioli.