Italian Cooking Forum with Paolo Villoresi

Climatic conditions, olive varietals, harvesting methods and production processes are key to the particular quality of each extra-virgin olive oil.

Like all products of nature, extra-virgin olive oils are marvelously varied and are different in taste, color and fragrance in different regions. In general, olive oils from Liguria and the Lake Garda region in the Veneto are light, probably the lightest of all Italian olive oils; olive oils from Tuscany and Umbria tend to be fruitier and more robust; and olive oils from Sicily, Sardinia and Calabria are milder yet more full-bodied.

Different producers from the same region offer widely different olive oils. Factors such as when and how the olives are picked, as well as the processing method, play a significant role in what the final product tastes like.

Think of olive oil as you would wine. If you use a poor quality olive oil it will give your dish an off-taste, just like a bad wine would.

As with wine, olive oil should be carefully paired with food. Consider the olive oil’s flavor and aroma characteristics, making sure that these complement rather than overwhelm the food.

As we have mentioned before, there are three broad flavor categories: mild, fruity and fruity-spicy–each suited to different preparations.

When dressing delicate dishes and sauces without garlic, use a mild olive oil (which is also good for baking sweets). A fruity olive oil is ideal in pasta sauces with garlic, herbs, spices and salads. For grilled meats and roasts, aged cheeses, or dishes with generous amounts of garlic and spices, a fruity-spicy olive oil works best.

Always taste an olive oil before cooking with it to decide what dish it will enhance most, remembering that, when used raw, the oil’s flavor is more pronounced.

•  To read more about buying and using olive oil, including how to store it and the difference between “filtered” and “unfiltered,” click here.
• Once you’ve found the right olive oil, find the perfect recipe to use it in.